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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.